It is not necessary to seal pavers. That being said, sealing does help prevent color fading and provides some measure of stain protection for your pavers. Prior to beginning the application process the pavers must be clean and dry. It is also recommended that you wait at least 30 days after installation before sealing your pavers. Once sealed, you will need to re-seal approximately every two to three years.
Paver installation should always start with the proper base material for the job. Crushed rock with approximately 1 ½" of concrete or gunite sand is recommended. Additionally, the installation of proper edge restraints is essential to preventing the spreading of pavers.
Pavers are inherently environmentally friendly. If you have an underground repair to do, simply remove the pavers in the area, complete the repair and replace them. The same repair would be a much larger and difficult job with permanent concrete. Pavers are a flexible pavement, so you will not have the surface cracks that usually occur with the use of regular concrete; and as an added bonus, interlocking pavers are aesthetically-pleasing which adds value and curb appeal to your property.
There are a number of products available that are specifically made for cleaning pavers. You can use a pressure cleaner on pavers, but do NOT use more than 1,000 to 1,200 PSIs of pressure or you could potentially damage to the pavers’ surface. If you have serious stains such as tire marks, we would recommend hiring a professional.
The easiest way to control ants, grass, mildew and weeds is to have your pavers professionally sealed and utilize a Belgard Polymeric Sand or Techniseal Joint Sand Stabilizer. You can also use a weed killer, such as Round-Up, or an insecticide like Andro as neither of these products will stain your pavers.
"Brick" is a common term that generally applies to clay products. Face brick are typically cored (which means they have holes in them) and are typically used for vertical applications. Pavers can be made out of either clay or concrete, are available in a wide variety of different sizes and thicknesses and are used for horizontal applications.
Our deliveries are made via semi-trucks that are equipped with a special forklift called a moffet on the back. This forklift detaches from the truck and can place your material near the area you need, provided there is an opening at least 10’ wide and 10’ tall for the forklift to get through. These are very heavy machines. Please take this into consideration when deciding where you would like your material placed to avoid damaging things such as sprinkler heads.
A flexible base consists of compacted crushed stone, gravel or coarse sand. Only mortarless brick paving is suitable for this type of base. A semi-rigid base consists of asphalt and is also only suitable for mortarless brick paving. A rigid base is defined as a reinforced or unreinforced concrete slab on grade; a rigid base can be used for both mortarless and mortared brick paving.
Brick paving can be installed over existing concrete or asphalt, provided it is in reasonably good shape. To ensure an adequate foundation for the brick, the existing concrete slab or asphalt should be inspected and any cracks, chips, holes, ruts or spalls should be repaired in order to achieve a flat surface.
The maximum height, including embedded first course, for a gravity (non-reinforced) retaining wall using the following products is:
Vertica Pro: 6 feet 3 inches, including 6” embedment (5 feet 9” above grade)* (10 courses)
Vertica: 3 feet 1 ½ inches, including 6” embedment (2 feet 7.5” above grade)* (5 courses)
Diamond Pro: 3 feet 4 inches, including 6” embedment (34” above grade)* (5 courses)
Highland: 4 feet, including 6” embedment (3 ½ feet above grade)* (7 courses)
Bayfield: 3 feet, including 6” embedment (2 ½ feet above grade)* (6 courses)
Diamond: 4 feet, including 6” embedment (3 ½ feet above grade)* (7 courses)
Yes, however, a terraced wall creates a surcharge load on the lower wall. Therefore, the distance between the walls should be greater than two times the height of the first (lower) wall.
EXAMPLE: If the first (lower) wall is 3 feet high, then the second wall must start at least 6 feet behind it. There are some exceptions to this rule, but a higher degree of engineering is required because the walls are no longer considered independent.
An integral rear lip or raised locator (Vertica) is manufactured into the blocks. The lip and locator automatically guides each new course; thus ensuring proper alignment and precise setback without the use of pins or mortar.
Concrete footings and pads will add considerable expense and will not allow the system to blend in and move; therefore, they are neither necessary nor recommended. However, if concrete slabs or footings already exist the blocks can be installed on top of them, provided at least one full block is buried below grade or the blocks are glued to the footer using a concrete adhesive.
The minimum radius is measured to the face of the blocks:
Vertica Pro (Bev & Str) 7 feet outside, 7 feet inside
Vertica Beveled: 4 feet outside, 7 feet inside
Vertica Straight: 7 feet outside, 7 feet inside
Diamond Pro Bev: 2 feet outside, 4 feet inside
Diamond Pro Str: 4 feet outside, 8 feet inside
Diamond Beveled: 2 feet outside, 4 feet inside
Diamond Straight: 4 feet outside, 8 feet inside
Highland: 4 feet outside, 8 feet inside
Bayfield: 4 feet outside, 8 feet inside
Aspen: 2 feet outside, 4 feet inside